Reported by market research company Euromonitor International, the global sales of men’s luxury fine jewellery had reached US$5.3 billion in 2017, an increase of 22 percent up from US$4.3 billion in 2012. That may not seem like much comparing with US$31.9 billion sales in the women’s sector in 2017 — but the men’s growth is steady.
Let see what’s trending in the market:
Ring is the hottest item for men ever. According to marketing research company NPD Group, about one third of sales in men’s jewellery was generated from this category in 2017, while 25 percent was driven by necklaces and chains, which are the second most favorite accessories among the globe.
“Men’s rings have become so popular,” said Sue Millar Perry, content director at David Perry & Associates, whom produces custom magazines for top luxury jewellery and watch retailers. “Many men are not used to wearing jewellery,” Ms. Perry said, “so you’re seeing more rings marketed for their ‘comfort fit,’ which means in essence that the ring is crafted so the inside of the band is slightly domed — instead of flat against the skin — to create a fit which is comfier on the finger and easier to squeeze over a knuckle.”
Evan Yurman recently introduced a special ring collection at David Yurman, an international jewellery company found by his parents, where he started a men’s line 14 years ago. “Men don’t have to have what’s basically a gold washer,” he said. His new designs are ridged, fluted, faceted and cabled in signature David Yurman style, which made of titanium, forged carbon, meteorite, black diamonds etc..
Rings also rule at the influential Dover Street Market stores in London, Tokyo and New York. As talked by Mimi Hoppen, their London-based director of jewellery, the latest jewellery finds turned out to be all about rings. She said she favored “Tom Wood, a Norwegian designer, with signet rings; and The Great Frog, an English brand, with big chunky silver rings. And Castro, an English engraver making rings. And the Tokyo jeweler Natural Instinct with their big, chunky silver carved bracelets and rings.”
In which of the stores is men’s jewellery most popular? “Tokyo is our strongest in men’s jewellery,” Ms. Hoppen said. “They like what is special and different, and they are really fashion aware in terms of style and how to present themselves. The English are slightly more reserved and New York, slightly less adventurous.”
2. Necklaces and Chains
As in fashion, the lines between men’s and women’s jewellery have become increasingly blurred. Maybe one day jewellery will all be unisex. At Dover Street Market, it already seemed to be as every jewellery line Ms. Hoppen singled out was unisex.
Diamonds are also rising in popularity, like the full-pave effect on Mr. Yurman’s most recent DY Dog Tags design. In Paris, the jeweller Alexandre Corrot of Djula said his male customers “are asking for more diamonds” too.
“Some men want a little sparkle,” Ms. Perry of David Perry & Associates added. “Not necessarily high wattage, but at recent shows we saw men’s rings and bracelets accented with black spinels or black diamonds, which offer the kind of subtle dazzle one could wear every day.”
Source: The New York Times (Kathleen Beckett)
Photo Courtesy: Getty Images, Marcy Swingle, Ramsay de Give